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Glossary
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12-Hour Recorder (Register) / 24-Hour Recorder (Register)
A sub-dial on a chronograph that can time periods of up to 12 or 24 hours.
24-hour Indicator
Displays military time by sub-wheels or a digital readout.
30-Minute Recorder (30-Minute Register)
A sub-dial on a chronograph, that can time periods of up to 30 minutes.
A
AHP (Automatic High Precision)
A swinging rotor drives a mini-generator. Its electric power is stored in a
capacitor, which supplies energy to the quartz-controlled integrated circuit.
A.M.
Ante Meridian (before noon).
Acrylic Crystal
Sometimes referred to as Hesolite or Hesalite, an acrylic crystal is basically
plastic. Polymethylacrylate (PMMA) is often used in the manufacture of these
crystals. Acrylic Crystals are known to flex, rather than shatter on impact, do
not produce much glare and can be polished easily.
Alarm
a timepiece feature that sounds an alarm at a user-defined, pre-set time or at
regular intervals. Alarm functions may be fitted (most commonly) to battery
powered quartz watches. There are mechanical alarm watches featuring a hammer,
which produces the alarm sound at the pre-set time. Some noteworthy examples
are the Revue Thommen Cricket and the Jaeger Le Coultre Memovox.
Altimeter
A function that provides altitude by responding to changes in barometric
pressure, commonly found in pilot watches. Note that inside a pressurized
airplane cabin, the altimeter will register as if on land.
Altitude
Altitude is the height of an object, person or animal above sea
level or the Earth’s surface.
Amplitude
Amplitude is sometimes used to describe the frequency of a timepiece’s
mechanical movement. However, it seems more often used to describe the angle of
oscillation of the balance wheel, either side of its neutral position. This
would therefore be measured in degrees (i.e., amplitude of 270 degrees).
Analog Digital
Analog Digital is a timepiece that
has both a digital display and the hands of a
conventional analog watch.
Analog Quartz
The most commonly-used term in referring to any analog timepiece that operates
on a battery or on solar power and that is regulated by a quartz crystal.
Analog
Analog is a
timepiece with a dial, hands, and numbers (or markers) that display a 12-hour
time period.
Anchor Escapement
The anchor escapement (see double roller Swiss anchor escapement) helps perform
the final part of the mechanical process in a mechanical watch in order to
divide the seconds and provide accurate timekeeping. Moving side to side, the
anchor escapement allows the final wheel (escape wheel) to rotate one cog at a
time. This process produces the ticking sound of a mechanical watch.
Aperture (or Dial Window)
an Aperture is a small opening in a dial plate, through which various
information is displayed (i.e., date, hours, days of the week, days of the
month).
Appliqué
applied chapters, numerals or symbols cut out of a sheet metal and stuck or
riveted to a timepiece dial (face).
Assembling
Assembling is the process of fitting together the components of a timepiece
movement. Assembling was formerly accomplished, entirely by hand, but the
operations have now been largely automated. Nevertheless, the human element is
still necessary, especially for inspection and testing.
Assortiment
The French term for the parts used in making a timepiece escapement.
Atmosphere (atm)
Unit of pressure used in watch making to indicate water-resistance. Atm
stands for "atmosphere" and is equal to 10 meters of water pressure. A
synonym for "atmosphere" is "bar," which is often used in Europe.
Atomic Time Standard
provided by the U.S. National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), Time and
Frequency Division,
Boulder,
Colorado, atomic
time is measured through vibrations of atoms in a metal isotope that resembles
mercury. The result is extremely accurate time that can be measured on
instruments. Radio waves transmit this exact time throughout
North America and some "atomic" watches can receive them
and correct to the exact time. To synchronize your watch with atomic standard
time, call (303) 499-7111.
Auto Repeat Timer
a feature that allows for the continuous operation of a countdown timer. If
timer function is set at one hour and started, it will countdown to zero, beep
with a warning signal and immediately return to the preset time and start the
countdown again. This would continue until stop button is pushed.
Automatic
this timepiece function is associated with many terms; Automatic Winding,
Self Winding, Automatic movement, and Kinetic are just a few. An automatic
timepiece refers to a timepiece with a mechanical movement (as opposed to a
quartz or electrical movement). The watch or clock is wound by the motion of
the wearer's arm, rather than through turning the winding crown. A rotor that
turns in response to motion winds the mainspring and the mainspring powers the
watch. If an automatic watch is not worn for a day or two, it will wind down
and need to be wound by hand a few turns to get it started again. When fully
wound and left to sit, most automatics will have up to 36 hours of reserve
power. Mechanical movements are accurate within one minute each day. This
system was invented in
Switzerland
by Abraham-Louis Perrelet in the 18th century.
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B
Baguette
A Baguette is a ladies style timepiece with a thin, elongated face, usually
rectangular in shape but may be oval.
Balance Wheel
The Balance Wheel and Balance Spring are the "regulating organs" of a mechanical
timepiece, vibrating on a spiral hairspring. Lengthening or shortening the
balance-spring makes the balance-wheel go faster or slower to advance or retard
the watch.
Balance
The Balance is a moving timepiece part, usually circular, oscillating about its
axis of rotation. The hairspring coupled to it, makes it swing to and fro,
dividing time into exactly equal parts. Each of the to-and-fro movements of the
balance ("tick-tock") is called an "oscillation". One oscillation is composed of
two vibrations.
Bar and Lug
A thin metal rod fixed between the horns of a wrist watch, to affix the strap or
bracelet to the case.
Barrel
The Barrel is a thin cylindrical box containing the mainspring of a watch. The
toothed rim of the barrel drives the train.
Base Metal
any non-precious metal is referred to as Base Metal.
Baton Hand
A Baton Hand is a narrow hand sometimes referred to as a stick hand.
Battery (or Cell) Reserve Indicator (or End of Battery Indicator)
A
Battery EOL Indicator forewarns of impending battery failure in a quartz watch
by means of the second hand jumping in two or sometimes four second intervals.
The wearer usually has approximately two weeks before battery failure.
Battery Life
Battery Life is the minimum period of time that a battery will continue to
provide power to run the watch. Life begins at the point of manufacture when the
factory initially installs the battery.
Battery
The Battery is a device that converts chemical energy into electricity. Most
watch batteries are silver oxide type delivering 1.5 volts. Much longer-lasting
lithium batteries are 3 volt.
Bezel
the bezel is the topmost ring of a wrist watch, surrounding the dial (or face),
that holds the crystal in place. It can be either plain (usually fixed) or it
can be marked with a 0 to 60 minute scale, as is the case in divers' watches.
Older rotating bezels were usually bi-directional. Modern diving watches are
equipped with a unidirectional bezel. The unidirectional bezel assists in
calculations for elapsed times, without accidentally being bumped backwards.
Bi-Directional Rotating Bezel
A bezel that can be rotated either clockwise or counterclockwise. These are used
for mathematical calculations such as average speed or distance or for keeping
track of elapsed time (see "elapsed time rotating bezel").
Bling Bling
"Bling Bling" is a 1999 hit hip-hop song by The
B.G., featuring his Cash Money Records label mates Juvenile, Lil' Wayne, Turk,
Baby, and Mannie Fresh. The song, and its many follow-ups from the label,
popularized a hip hop slang term which refers to expensive jewelry and other
accoutrements. The term is thought to be derived from the onomatopoeia of a
visual effect used to denote light glistening off metal or jewels.
Blued Screws
traditionally, high quality movements were fitted with screws which were
artificially blued, more for decoration than function.
Bracelet
Flexible metal band consisting of assembled links, usually in the same style as
the case. Detachable links lengthen or shorten the bracelet.
Brass
Copper and zinc alloy used to make the main plate and bridge wheels in the
movement.
Bridge
Complementary part fixed to the main plate to form the frame of a watch
movement. The other parts are mounted inside the frame (part of the "ébauche").
Buckle
usually matching the case, the Buckle attaches the two parts of the leather
strap around the wrist.
Built-In Illumination
Built-In Illumination is the lighting on a watch dial that allows the wearer to
read the time in the dark. One example of this is Seiko's LumiBrite technology.
Button
Push piece controls, usually at 2 o'clock and/or 4 o'clock on the dial, to
control special functions such as the chronograph or the alarm.
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C
C.O.S.C.
The Swiss Official Chronometer Control (see Chronometer).
Cabochon Crown
a rounded semi-precious stone or synthetic material usually black, fitted into
the watch crown as an ornament.
Calendar
The calendar function of a wrist watch can display a date-only, date and day or
a triple calendar (showing the date, day and month). A combination of dial cut
outs and pointer hands may be used. The most complicated calendar mechanisms
(sometimes referred to as perpetual calendars) may be mechanically programmed to
show the year and months, including those with less than 31 days; leap years can
also be mechanically allowed for.
Caliber / Calibre
Caliber was originally
used to indicate the physical dimensions of a timepiece. This term now denotes
the size and configuration of the movement (i.e., men's caliber, automatic
caliber, etc). When a caliber number is accompanied by the manufacturer's mark,
it serves as an indication of origin.
Cambered
Cambered is a term often used to refer to a curved or arched dial or bezel.
Carat / Karat
Carat is a unit of gold fineness and gemstone weight. For example; pure gold is
24k and 18k is 75% pure gold.
Case (Timepiece)
A housing of a timepiece’s parts that protects the timepiece movement from
moisture, dirt and shock. It also gives the timepiece an attractive appearance,
subject to fashion and the tastes of the public.
Casing (up)
Process of inserting and fixing a watch movement into its case.
Chablon
French term for a watch movement (not including the dial and hands), of which
all or part of the components are not assembled.
Chronograph
a multifunction sport watch or timepiece with two independent time systems: one
indicates the time of day, and the other measures brief intervals of time.
Counters (registering seconds, minutes and even hours) can be started and
stopped as desired. Therefore, it is possible to measure the exact duration of
an event. Not to be confused with a timer, stopwatch or chronometer, there are
many variations on the chronograph. Some chronographs operate with a normal;
center second hand which keeps time on the watch's main dial. Other
chronographs use sub-dials or mini-dials to time elapsed hours, minutes and
seconds. While other chronographs show elapsed time on a digital display on the
watch face. Some chronographs can be used as a lap timer (see "flyback hand"
and "split seconds hand"). The accuracy of the stopwatch function will commonly
vary from 1/5th of a second to 1/100th of a second, depending on the
chronograph. Some chronographs will measure an elapsed time up to 24 hours.
Chronometer
technically speaking, all watches are chronometers, but for a Swiss-made watch
to be called a chronometer, it must meet specific standards set by the Swiss
Official Chronometer Control (C.O.S.C.). If you have a Swiss watch labeled as a
chronometer, you can be certain that it has a mechanical movement of the very
highest quality. Your timepiece has undergone a series of precise tests and is
usually tested out of the case for 15 days and nights (in various positions and
at various temperatures). The requirements of these tests are very severe: a
few seconds per day variance in the most unfavorable temperature conditions and
positions that are not ordinarily encountered. Once these requirements are met,
the timepiece is awarded a certificate. Most watch companies either provide
this certificate with a purchase or it can be mailed to you.
Clasp
The attachment used to connect the two ends of the watch bracelet or strap
around the wrist.
Complication
A complication is a timepiece with other functions, besides time keeping. For
example, a chronograph is a watch complication. Other complications coveted by
watch collectors include: the minute repeater, tourbillon, perpetual calendar,
and split second chronograph. A timepiece with more than three
complications would be referred to as a "Grand Complication".
Corrector
System to set the watch indicators (the hour, minute or day) by means of the
crown.
Countdown timer
a function that lets the wearer keep track of how much of a pre-set period of
time has elapsed. Some countdown timers sound a warning signal a few seconds
before the time runs out. These are useful in events such as yacht races, where
the sailor must maneuver the boat into position before the start of a race.
Crown
also called a winding stem, stem or pin, the crown is the knurled knob or button
located on the outside of a timepiece case, which is used to set the time and
date. In a mechanical watch, the crown also winds the mainspring. In this
case, it is also called a winding crown or winder. On diving and sports models,
the crown may be a screw in (or screw down) crown. The crown actually screws
onto a threaded tube which protrudes from the case of the watch, dramatically
increasing the water-tightness of the watch.
Crystal
A clear glass or plastic, protective cover for protecting the dials and faces of
timepieces. Three types of crystals are commonly found in watches; acrylic
crystal (a plastic), mineral crystal and sapphire crystal. Acrylic crystal is
inexpensive and allows shallow scratches to be buffed out. Mineral crystal is
comprised of several elements that are heat treated to create an unusual
hardness, which aids in resisting scratches. Sapphire crystal is the most
expensive and durable, approximately three times harder than mineral crystals
and 20 times harder than acrylic crystals. A non-reflective coating is applied
to some sport styles to prevent glare.
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D
Date Watch
also called a Calendar Watch or Calendar; a Date Watch indicates the date, month
and possibly the year and phases of the moon.
Date
Ordinal number referring to a day of the month.
Dauphine Hands
a wide, tapered hand with a facet at the center running the length of the hand.
Day Date Watch
A Day Date Watch is a watch that indicates not only the date but the day of the
week.
Decorated Movement
Some watch movements come highly decorated, for example with Geneva Stripes and
blued screws. While decoration may not improve function, it often indicates a
certain degree of hand assembly, finishing and an attention to detail in the
construction of a timepiece. Some wrist watches show off the decorated movement
through the use of a display back.
Deployment Buckle
a three-folding enclosure, which secures the two ends of the bracelet and allows
enough room for placing the watch on the wrist when fully deployed. When closed,
the buckle covers the two-piece folding mechanism.
Depth Alarm
an alarm on a divers' watch that sounds when the wearer exceeds a pre-set depth.
Depth Sensor / Depth Meter
a device on a divers' watch that determines the wearer's depth by measuring
water pressure. It shows the depth either by analog hands and a scale on the
watch face or through a digital display.
Diachronic
A liquid-crystal display (LCD) enabling a color to appear or vanish on the
surface.
Dial
The dial (often referred to as the face) is usually marked with batons numerals,
divisions or symbols of various types to which the hands point, in order for the
wearer to tell the correct time. The dials themselves can be very simple,
sometimes with no markers at all or extremely complex, as in the case of a
pilots' chronograph. Dials can also be decorated with patterns or in some cases
with precious stones.
Diamond
An extremely hard, highly refractive crystalline form of
carbon. Usually colorless and used as a gemstone. Can also be found
in abrasives, cutting tools, and other applications.
Digital Display
As opposed to an analogue display, a digital display shows the time in numbers;
most often used with LCD (Liquid Crystal Diode) displays, such as the quartz
watch. During the 1960's there were many mechanical digitals with rotating
discs instead of hands. Cut outs in the dial would show the correct time. The
first quartz digital LED watches came onto the market in the early to mid 70’s;
for example the Pulsar Time Computer.
Digital Watch
A Digital Watch is any watch that shows the time in numbers, instead of hands on
the dial. The numbers appear in LCD (liquid crystal diode), which shows a
continuous reading, or in LED (light-emitting diode), which shows time at the
push of a button.
Direct-Drive
Refers to a seconds-hand that moves forwards in little jerks.
Directional Compass
can be displayed by rotating a bezel or digital readout on the face of the
watch. It is used to determine a geographical direction using the location of
the sun.
Display
Indication of time or other data, either by means of hands moving over a dial
(analogue display) or by means of numerals appearing in one or more windows
(digital or numerical display); these numerals may be completed by alphabetical
indications (alphanumerical display) or by signs of any other kind.
Divers Watches / Diving Watch / Diver’s Watch
Diver's watches are designed and manufactured especially for those whose lives
depend on the reliability of their watch in the water. Diver's watches must
meet ISO (International Standardization Organization) standards regarding water
resistance, pressure resistance, legibility in water, time presetting function
(unidirectional, rotating elapsed time bezel), anti-magnetic ability,
anti-shock, rust resistance in salt water, manageability in the water and the ability to
withstand sudden temperature changes. The minimum water resistance should
be 200M. Unidirectional bezels are a must, in case the bezel is accidentally
rotated backwards; so it will not show an extended diving duration. For
accurate settings, bezels should also have a one minute interval click
(unidirectional ratcheting bezel). Inscribed on the case back is the battery
replacement month (to keep the wearer aware of the last battery change) to help
prevent the watch from stopping during a dive. The straps should feature extra
large buckles, for easy fastening, they should be rubber (not leather) or a
metal bracelet and consist of a longer length, to allow it to be worn over a
diving suit and possibly a wetsuit extension. The bezel should be set higher
than the surface of the crystal to prevent impacts and scratches. Large
luminous hands, markers and dials are designed for
easy legibility. Please
refer to (and adhere to) your Instruction Booklet for "Periodical Check,
"Pre-Diving Check," and "Battery Change Instructions".
Double Roller Swiss Anchor Escapement
It is
the development and refinement of this escapement (see Anchor Escapement) which,
in the nineteenth century, hurled the Swiss into the indisputable position of
dominance in the world of watch making. Today, this escapement has proven
itself an accurate, reliable, and durable design, through literally trillions of
beats. Double Roller Swiss Anchor Escapements are now found in virtually all
production wristwatches. Although it is well known that the escapement
regulates the rate of the watch, the relatively simple process by which it does
so is not widely understood. While the specific geometries and details of the
anchor escapement are complex and demanding, the concepts are not.
Dual Timer
A Dual Timer is a timepiece that measures the current local time, as well as,
one other time zone. The additional time element may come from a twin dial,
extra hand, sub dials, or other means. Some timepieces include more than two
time zones (Multiple Time Zone Watch).
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E
E6B
The E6B Flight Computer is used to perform any
multiplication or division calculation. This ingenious method was invented
in the 17th century and uses logarithmic scale that enables to add or subtract
numbers instead of multiplying or dividing them. This is basically the
famous slide rule in circular form. The slide rule was in wide use until
the inexpensive hand held calculator was invented. It was used by scientists to
quickly perform complicated calculations such as the orbits of all Gemini space
missions. The E6B is especially designed to easily solve problems of speed,
distance and time, as well as fuel consumption and unit conversions (things that
are useful for pilots). With an E6B, you will be able to quickly convert
currencies, or metric units to imperial and much more.
EOE
End of Energy. System used to alert the wearer of accumulator discharge by
causing the seconds hand to jump every four seconds instead of every second. The
accumulator can be recharged by turning the crown.
EOL
End of Life. In quartz movement the end of battery life is indicated by the
seconds hand which starts to jump every four seconds. The battery should be
changed immediately.
Ebauche
French term (but commonly used in English-speaking countries) for a movement
blank, i.e. an incomplete watch movement which is sold as a set of loose parts,
comprising the main plate, the bridges, the train, the winding and setting
mechanism and the regulator. The timing system, the escapement and the
mainspring, however, are not parts of the "ébauche". As a more
generalized term, an
ébauche is simply a reference to a Swiss-made Timepiece.
Elapsed Time Rotating Bezel
a
graduated rotating bezel (see "rotating bezel") used to keep track of elapsed
time. The bezel can be turned so the wearer can align the zero on the bezel with
the watch's seconds or minute’s hand. After a period of time passes, you can
read the elapsed time off the bezel. This saves you having to perform the
subtraction that would be necessary if you used the watch's regular dial.
Electroplating
The process of covering metal articles with a film of other metals. The article
is immersed in a chemical solution; electric current (D.C.) flows through the
solution from a piece of metal (anode) to the article (cathode), depositing
metal thereon by electrolysis. metals which can be used for plating are: 1)
gold—a precious metal generally yellow in color; 2) chrome—can be white or
black; 3) palladium—a precious metal, generally white; 4) ruthenium—also a
precious metal but usually gray.
Escapement
The escapement in a mechanical watch refers to a combination of parts including
the anchor, pallets and balance wheel amongst others which translate the power
of the mechanism into regular timekeeping. The escapement is responsible for the
familiar ticking sound of a mechanical watch.
Etablissage
The
French term for the method of manufacturing watches and/or
movements by assembling their various components. It generally includes the
following operations: receipt, inspection and stocking of the "ébauche", the
regulating elements and the other parts of the movement and of the make-up;
assembling; springing and timing; fitting the dial and hands; casing; final
inspection before packing and dispatching.
Etablisseur
The
French term for a
watch factory which is engaged only in assembling watches, without itself
producing the components, which it buys from specialist suppliers.
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F
Face
The visible side of the watch where the dial is contained, most are printed with
Arabic or Roman numerals. Note: traditionally IIII, rather than IV, is used to
indicate the 4 o'clock position.
Factory (works)
In the Swiss watch industry, the term manufacture is used of a factory in which
watches are manufactured almost completely, as distinct from an "atelier de
terminage", which is concerned only with assembling, timing, fitting the hands
and casing.
Factory, works
In the Swiss watch industry, the term manufacture is used of a factory in which
watches are manufactured almost completely, as distinct from an "atelier de
terminage", which is concerned only with assembling, timing, fitting the hands
and casing.
Fineness Rating
In North America, the amount of gold in or on a piece of jewelry or a timepiece
must be stamped with a gold quality mark (i.e., 14K, 18K, etc.). In
Italy
gold must also be stamped with a gold Fineness mark (i.e., 583, 750, etc.).
These marks denote the pureness of gold in or on the piece of jewelry or
timepiece that you are looking at. The purest gold has a Fineness rating of 999
or 24 karat.
Flyback Hand or Split Hand
A
seconds hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to determine
finishing times for several competitors in a race.
Flyback
A flyback
is a chronograph which works as follows: first push of the chrono button starts
the seconds hand; second push causes the seconds hand to reset to zero and
begins. This is opposed to a normal chronograph, where you push once to start,
once more to stop, another button to return to zero, and once more to begin
again. The purpose of the flyback is to begin retiming quickly.
Fold-Over Buckle
See Deployment buckle
Frequency
Frequency is the number of vibrations a second, in hertz (Hz).
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G
Gear Train
the gears used in a mechanical timepiece that connect the mainspring (which
powers the watch) through to the escapement, which translates that power into
timekeeping.
Geneva Stripes
Geneva
Stripes are a form of decoration in higher grade timepiece movements, which look
like stripes on the movement plates. Formerly applied by hand, these markings
are now applied by machine.
Glass (Crystal)
A
thin plate of glass or transparent, synthetic material for protecting the dials
and faces of timepieces.
Gold plated
a
layer of gold electroplated to a base metal.
Gold
a soft, yellow, corrosion-resistant element, the most malleable and ductile
metal, occurring in veins and alluvial deposits and recovered by mining or by
panning or sluicing. A good thermal and electrical conductor, gold is generally
alloyed to increase its strength or color, and it is used as an international
monetary standard, in jewelry, bracelets and timepieces and as a plated coating
on a wide variety of electrical and mechanical components.
The portion
of gold in the alloy is indicated in karats (K) or Fineness.
Grand Complication
a timepiece that contains at least three
"complications".
Greenwich Mean Time
Also known as
Greenwich Meridian Time, zero
degrees longitude, GMT or G.M.T.; Greenwich Mean Time
is the former name for mean solar time at the original site of the Royal
Observatory in Greenwich,
England
(located on the
prime meridian). In 1925,
the numbering system was changed to make GMT equivalent to
civil time at the prime
meridian, and in 1928 the International Astronomical Union changed the
designation of the
standard time of the prime
meridian to Coordinated Universal Time (UTC), which is now in general use (see
“UTC”).
Guilloche
A
French term meaning "engine-turned". Guilloche is a style of intricate, interwoven engraving, that is popular on high-end timepieces, giving the
watch face or watch case great depth and surface texture (often applied to silver
or silver-plated faces and cases).
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H
Hack / Hacking
Describes the feature of a movement whereby the seconds hand can be stopped for
exact setting of the time (originally a military term for this feature).
Hand Indicator
the pointing devices anchored at the center of a timepiece, circling around a
graduated dial or scale, usually in a group of three, indicating hours, minutes
and seconds. Timepiece hands are usually made of thin, light pieces of metal,
varying greatly in form and design
(such as: Pear, Breguet, Baton,
Arrow, Skeleton, Luminous, Alpha, Dauphine, etc).
Hand wound / Hand wind
Used to describe a
timepiece with a mechanical movement, which needs
to be wound by the wearer using the winding crown. This winds-up the
mainspring, which then releases its energy to power the watch.
Hard Metal
a
scratch-resistant metal comprised of binding several materials, including
titanium and tungsten-carbide, which are then pressed into an extremely hard
metal and polished with diamond powder to add brilliance.
Hardlex Crystal
Sapphlex Crystals and Hardlex crystals are associated with Seiko timepieces.
Together, they create a highly scratch-resistant timepiece crystal. These are
created by the fusion of sapphire and mineral glass crystals (Hardlex
crystals). Hardlex Crystals are Seiko's patented surface hardening system,
making mineral crystals a lot more scratch resistant.
High-Tech Ceramic
Used as a protective shield for spacecraft reentering the earth's atmosphere,
high tech ceramic is polished with diamond dust to create a highly polished
finish. Because the ceramic can be injection molded, pieces can be contoured. It
has a very smooth surface, usually found in black, but can be produced in a
spectrum of colors.
Hook Lock
Two separate units each fitting on either end of the bracelet which allows the
watch to be laid out. One end of the closure hooks onto the other to secure the
two ends of the bracelet.
Horologist
One who practices or is skilled in horology.
Horology
Horology is the science of time measurement, including the art of designing and
constructing timepieces.
Hourly Time Signal
An Hourly Time Signal consists of a single beep, chime or ding, which rings on
the hour, every hour when it is engaged.
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I
Incabloc
Incabloc is a trade name for a type of shock absorbing device/spring used to
protect the delicate parts of the mechanical watch escapement. Mentioned here as
it is probably the most widely used and some watch manufacturers used to draw
attention to it by referring to it on the watch dial itself.
Index / Indices
An Index (or Indices) usually
refers to the markings on the dial of a watch showing hours and minutes. They
can however refer to the markings on the regulator of a watch movement, to aid
in a precision adjustment for accurate timekeeping.
Integrated Bracelet
An Integrated Bracelet is
a watch bracelet that is incorporated into the
design of the case.
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J
Jeweler's Clasp
a Jeweler’s Clap is a closure that is generally used on better bracelets. They
also allow the clasp to lie flat.
Jewels
In the mechanical watch and some quartz watches, jewels (usually made from
synthetic ruby) are used as bearings for those parts of the movement subject to
constant motion. They are not valuable at all in the monetary sense but they are
valuable in aiding the precise running of a watch over a long period and
reducing wear. It is a fallacy that the more jewels the better the watch. A
basic hand wound mechanical usually comprises 17 jewels which in the main is the
optimum count. Automatics may require more for the winding mechanism itself. In
the 1960s there appeared to be a competition to see who could fit the most
jewels in a watch movement, manufacturers proudly referred to 100 Jewels on the
dial; opening the watch usually revealed that up to 80% of these jewels had no
purpose and was simply mounted here and there on the movement to up the jewel
count!
Jewels
Higher grade watches have traditionally used a jeweled movement, which means
that jewels (originally natural ruby, now synthetic ruby) were actually used in
the movement. These jewels are functional - they are used as the bearings for
the wheel trains and in high wear parts such as the escape lever and impulse
jewel.
A lower-end movement from before 1970 would typically use 5 or 7
jewels; this end of the market has pretty much been taken over by quartz.
Nowadays, most manual wind watches will have a standard complement of 17 jewels,
which are:
-
1: Impulse jewel (the part
of the balance wheel assembly which receives a kick from the escape lever)
-
2-5: Balance staff pivot
bearings (two pairs - in combinations of one pivot jewel (i.e. jewel with a
hole to receive the axle (pivot) of the wheel) and one cap jewel (i.e. jewel
without a hole outboard of the pivot jewel, to prevent excessive movement of
the balance staff), usually shock protected)
-
6-7: Escape lever pallets
(one pair)
-
8-9: Escape lever pivot
bearings (one pair)
-
10-11: Escape wheel pivot
bearings (one pair)
-
12-13: Fourth wheel pivot
bearings (one pair)
-
14-15: Third wheel pivot
bearings (one pair)
-
16-17: Center wheel pivot
bearings (one pair)
Note that automatic
winding movements, and movements with additional functions such as chronographs
and calendars, can up the total number of jewels tremendously. For example, the
IWC Il Destriero Scafusia (claimed to be among the most complicated wristwatches
manufactured) has a total of 76 jewels to accommodate the time, perpetual
calendar, rattrapante chronograph, repeater, and tourbillon functions - and this
is a manual wind watch.
Jumping Hour
System of timekeeping whereby the seconds and minutes are shown by traditional
hands but the hour is shown in a dial cutout (often at 12), on the minutes hand
reaching 59 minutes, the hour disc under the dial will jump to the next hour.
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K
Karat
In North America, the amount of gold in or on a piece of jewelry or a timepiece
must be stamped with a gold quality mark (i.e., 14K, 18K, etc.). In
Italy
gold must also be stamped with a gold Fineness mark (i.e., 583, 750, etc.).
These marks denote the pureness of gold in or on the piece of jewelry or
timepiece that you are looking at. The purest gold has a Fineness rating of 999
or 24 karat.
KIF-Brand Anti-Shock Unit
KIF-Brand is the
trade name for a
timepiece shock absorbing system (similar to Incabloc above).
Kinetic
Refers to the Seiko line of Kinetic watches. This innovative technology has a
quartz movement that does not use a battery. Movement of your wrist charges a
very efficient capacitor which powers the quartz movement. Once the capacitor is
fully charged, men’s models will store energy for 7-14 days without being worn.
Ladies models store energy for 3-7 days. Of course, if the watch is worn every
day the capacitor is continually recharged. The watch alerts you to a low
capacitor charge when the seconds hand starts to move in two second intervals.
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L
Lap Timer
A Lap Timer is
a chronograph
function that lets the wearer time segments of a race. At the end of a lap, he
stops the timer, which then returns to zero to begin timing the next lap.
LED
(Light Emitting Diode)
A semiconductor diode that converts applied voltage to
light and is used in digital displays, such as a calculator or wrist watch.
This type of
electronic display encapsulated the 1970s. An LED watch will usually display the
time in red or green displays. LED's consume far more power
than quartz watches. The time or date will display for a few seconds when a
button is pushed. The price of 1970’s LED watches has risen steadily over the
past few years and original LED's are now extremely collectible.
Lighted Dials
Several types of lighted dials are used so that you can tell time in the dark or
low-light situations. Recently, a patented night-light process, called
electro-luminescent (EL), lights the entire dial with a uniform light that makes
for easy reading in nighttime situations. A side button activates the light.
This technology often appears under a name brand such as Timex's Indiglo or
Seiko's LumiBrite.
Liquid Crystal Display (LCD)
A
digital watch display that shows the time electronically by means of a liquid
held in a thin layer between two transparent plates. All LCD watches have quartz
movements.
Lugs
Protrusions on the case of a watch to which the bracelet or strap is fitted.
Various types of lugs can be found such as rounded lugs, teardrop lugs and
hidden lugs.
LumiBrite
LumiBrite is an environmentally safe illumination technology that will glow
brightly for hours without pushing a button or drawing energy from a battery.
Luminous Hands
Hands made of skeleton form with the opening filled by a luminous material.
Luminous
self illuminating paint used on hands and markers.
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M
Main Plate
the base of a timepiece on which all the other parts are mounted (part of the
"ébauche").
Mainspring
the driving spring of a timepiece, contained in the barrel.
Manual Watch
A Manual Watch is a timepiece that requires a winding mechanism to power it.
Manufacture d'horlogerie
A
French term
describing a watch factory, which produces the components (particularly the
"ébauches") needed for the manufacture of timepieces.
Marine Chronometer
Highly accurate mechanical or electronic timekeeper enclosed in a box (hence the
term box chronometer), used for determining the longitude on board ship. Marine
chronometers with mechanical movements are mounted on gimbals so that they
remain in the horizontal position is necessary for their precision.
Measurement Conversion
A
feature, usually consisting of a graduated scale on the watch's bezel, that lets
the wearer translate one type of measurement into another-miles into kilometers,
for instance, or pounds into kilograms.
Mechanical Movement
a movement based on a mainspring which is wound by hand; when wound, it slowly
unwinds the spring in an even motion. An automatic mechanical requires no
winding because of the rotor, which winds the mainspring every time you move
your body.
Mechanical
describes a movement with a balance wheel.
Meter
The international standard unit of length,
approximately equivalent to 39.37 inches. It was redefined in 1983 as the
distance traveled by light in a vacuum in 1/299,792,458 of a second. One
foot = 0.3048 meters.
Military or 24-Hour Time
(also referred to as universal time) means of representing time sequentially
using 24 hours, counting from 0100 (12:01am) to 2400 (12 midnight). To convert
12-hour time into 24-hour time, simply add 12 to any p.m. time. To convert
24-hour time into 12-hour time, subtract 12 from any time from 13 to 24.
Mineral Crystal / Mineral Glass
Watch crystal made from what is essentially a form of glass. More scratch
resistant than acrylic, a mineral crystal will however scratch and is extremely
difficult, if not impossible to polish.
Minute Repeater
Used to describe a complication on a watch that can strike/chime the time in
hours, half hours or quarters by means of a push piece.
Mohs’ Scale of Mineral Hardness
Mohs' scale of mineral hardness characterizes the scratch
resistance of various minerals, through the ability of a harder material to
scratch a softer. It was created, in 1812, by the German mineralogist Friedrich
Mohs and is one of several definitions of hardness in materials science. Mohs
based the scale on ten minerals that are all readily available except the last
one, diamond. The hardness of a material is measured against the scale by
finding the hardest material that the given material can scratch, and/or the
softest material that can scratch the given material. For example, if some
material is scratched by apatite but not by fluorite, its hardness on Mohs scale
is 4.5.
Moon Phase Indicator / Sun Phase Indicator
A Sun Phase Indicator or Moon Phase Indicator is a timepiece function that keeps
track of the phases of the Sun or Moon. The regular rotation of the Moon is
once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. The time it takes
for the Earth to make a complete rotation around the Sun is approximately 24
hours (exactly 23.934 hours). The Earth revolves around the Sun once every
365.25 days. Once set, the indicator accurately displays the phases of the Moon
or Sun.
Mother-of-Pearl
Iridescent, milky interior shell of the fresh water mollusk that is sliced thin
and used on watch dials. While most have a milky white luster, mother-of-pearl
also comes in other colors such as silvery gray, gray blue, pink, and salmon.
Movement
The Movement is the assembly consisting of the principal elements and
mechanisms of a timepiece (the winding and setting mechanism, the mainspring,
the train, the escapement, and the regulating elements). Movements are either
mechanical, electrical or quartz.
Multiple Time Zone Watch / 5 Time Zone Watch
Multiple Time Zone Watches are timepieces that measure the current local time,
as well as, two or more other time zones. The additional time elements may come
from extra hands, sub dials, or other means. These are usually large-faced
wrist watches that resemble chronographs. Some of the most fashionable,
well-known and copied multiple time zone (or 5 time zone) watches in the world are Jacob &
Co.’s “JC” line.
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N
Nivarox / Nivaflex
the trade
names for the metal alloys used for many Swiss watch mainsprings and
hairsprings. These materials self compensate for the effects of temperature
(e.g. expansion and contraction) and are extremely strong and corrosion
resistant.
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O
O-Ring
O-Rings are used to seal the backs of watches, which feature either a press-in
back or a screw on back. They assist water resistance. They are also used on
the winding stems of watches and in the winding crowns, to protect against the
ingestion of moisture and dust (normally made from a rubber or plastic
compound).
Onomatopoeia
words that sound like the objects they name
or the sounds those objects make.
Oscillation
The travel of the balance wheel from one extreme to the other and back again.
See Vibration.
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P
Pendulum
A body suspended from a fixed support so that
it swings freely back and forth under the influence of gravity, commonly used to
regulate various devices, especially clocks. Also called simple pendulum.
Perpetual Calendar
Used to describe a calendar complication that adjusts automatically to account
for different lengths of the month (30 or 31 days) and leap years. Perpetual
calendars, which can be powered by quartz or mechanical movements, are
programmed to be accurate until the year 2100.
Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD)
A process developed for coating the tips of metal cutting tools to extend their
life. It's a complex process involving high temperature, high voltage and a
vacuum cabinet filled with inert gas. PVD coating is extremely hard and durable
and should not be compared with anodizing or any other coating method.
Plating
Plating is the process of coating a metal base with another finish metal. For
example: in timepiece making; a stainless steel base is coated with gold seven
to 20 microns thick.
Platinum
One of the rarest precious metals, platinum is also one of the strongest and
heaviest, making it a popular choice for setting gemstone jewelry and watches.
It has a rich, white luster, and an understated look. Platinum is hypoallergenic
and tarnish resistant. Platinum used in jewelry and watches is at least 85 to 95
percent pure. Many platinum watches are produced in limited editions due to the
expense and rarity of the metal.
Polished
Brilliant metal surface obtained on the watch-case with a fine abrasive and
vigorous buffing.
Power Reserve Indicator
a
feature that shows when a watch will soon need a new battery or winding. A
battery reserve indicator on a quartz watch informs the wearer when the battery
is low. Often this is indicated by the seconds’ hand moving at two to
four-second intervals.
Power Reserve
The time the watch will run when fully wound or with a fully charged power
supply. For mechanical watches it is usually 44 hours. For quartz watches it
can vary from 18 moths to 10 years.
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Q
Quartz / Quartz Movement
Used to describe a timepiece movement, powered by a quartz crystal. Quartz
crystals are very accurate and they can be mass produced, which makes them less
expensive than most mechanical movements which require a higher degree of
craftsmanship. When activated by a battery or solar power, the thin sliver of
crystal vibrates at an extremely high frequency (oscillating at 32,768 times per
second). An electronic circuit divides this oscillation into precise increments
of 1 second or less. While derided by many purists as disposable and cheap, the
quartz watch is nonetheless extremely accurate. Some of these quartz wrist
watches have been made super-accurate, by using a much higher frequency (e.g.
4.2 million cycles per second), by using two oscillators and/or by using
temperature compensation.
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R
Ratchet Bezel Ring
a bi-directional bezel ring which clicks into place.
Rattrapante
A Split Seconds or Rattrapante
(which means catch up in French) or
doppelchrono
(which means double chrono in German) has two seconds hands, the first push
starts both hands together, the second push stops one hand while the other
continues, and another push allows the stopped hand to catch-up with the moving
seconds.
Register
a small dial within or on the main dial of a watch face (also referred to as
Counters or Totalizers), used for any of several
purposes; such as keeping track of elapsed minutes, hours or seconds on a chronograph or
indicating the date (see Subdial below).
Regulating Elements
Set of parts comprising the regulating system (sprung-balance) and the
escapement (escape wheel, lever and roller).
Repeater
a timepiece that strikes the hours by means of a push-piece or bolt activated
mechanism. There are various types of repeaters. Quarter-repeater: sounding a
low note for the hours and a "ding-dong" for each of the quarters, Five-minute
repeater; striking the hours, quarters and five-minute periods after the
quarter, Minute-repeater; striking the hours, quarters and minutes, Grande
Sonnerie (grand strike); striking the hours and quarters automatically and
repeating when a push-piece is pressed down, and the Chiming repeater; in which
the quarters are struck on three or four gongs of different pitch.
Retrograde
used to describe the pointer hand on a watch dial (often a sub-dial) which
returns to zero at the end of a prescribed period. For example; a watch may
have a retrograde date. In this case, the hand moves up a scale a day at a
time, pointing to the current date. When it reaches 31 it will spring back to
1.
Rose Gold / Pink Gold
Rose Gold (sometimes referred to as Pink Gold) is a softly-hued gold that
contains the same materials as yellow gold, but with a higher concentration of
copper in the alloy. A popular color in Europe, rose gold in watches is often
seen in retro styling or in tricolor variations. Tricolor jewelry and
timepieces have become increasingly popular, worldwide.
Rotating Bezel
A bezel (the ring surrounding the watch face) that can be turned. Different
types of rotating bezels perform different timekeeping and mathematical
functions.
Rotor
A Rotor is the oscillating, partial disk of heavy-metal (usually shaped like a
semicircle) inside an automatic (or self-winding) mechanical watch, which winds
the movement's mainspring. A rotor, most commonly, is free to rotate in a full
360 degrees and may wind the watch when it is rotating in one direction only
or indeed may wind in both directions, through the use of reverser wheels
and gears. The rotor gets its energy to move through the daily movement of the
wearer’s arm.
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S
Sand-Blasting
Creating a granular metal finish by using a high-pressure jet of sand.
Sapphire Crystal
Synthetic sapphire formed for use as the crystal of a timepiece. Extremely
scratch resistant (9 on the Mohs’ Scale); a sapphire crystal is the material of
choice for many watch collectors. The downsides are that sapphire can chip at
the edges if they protrude and can shatter.
Sapphire
Synthetic corundum crystal with a hardness second only to diamond. Transparent
sapphire is used for scratch-proof watch glasses.
Sapphlex Crystal
sometimes misspelled as Sapplex Crystals; Sapphlex Crystals and Hardlex crystals
are associated with Seiko timepieces. Together they create a highly
scratch-resistant timepiece crystal. They are created by the fusion of sapphire
and mineral glass crystals (Hardlex crystals).
Screw-Lock Crown / Screw Down Crown
a crown which aids water resistance, by sealing the crown against the case. The
seal is achieved by the matching of a threaded pipe on the case with the crown's
internal threads and creating a gasket, while twisting the crown into position
(see Winding Stem).
Seal
Synthetic gaskets that seal the joints between parts of the case and keep out
moisture.
Second Time-Zone Indicator
A Second Time-Zone Indicator is an additional dial, on a timepiece, that can be
set to coordinate with the time somewhere else. It lets the wearer keep track
of the local time and the time in another state, time-zone or country,
simultaneously.
Second
a unit of time (abbr. s or sec) equal to one sixtieth of a minute.
It
corresponds to one 86,000th of the mean solar day (i.e., the duration of the
Earth’s rotation about its own axis, circling around the Sun in one year, at a
constant speed and in the plane of the Equator).
Setting (time)
The process of setting the hands or display of a timepiece to the position
corresponding to the current, exact time.
Shock Absorbers
Spring devices used in timepiece balance-wheel bearings that divert shocks away
from the fragile pivot (usually 12/100mm diameter) to the sturdier parts of the
balance staff. The springs allow the balance-wheel to return to its original
position after shocks.
Shock Resistance
as defined by U.S.
government regulation, Shock Resistance is a timepiece's ability to withstand an
impact equal to that of being dropped onto a wood floor from a height of 3 feet.
Shot-Blasting
A type of timepiece finishing that creates a satin finish by using tiny glass
pellets, one or two microns in diameter.
Skeleton Hands
timepiece hands that have the center cut out, showing only the frame.
Skeleton Watch / Skeleton Case
a watch in which the case and various other parts of the movement are of
transparent material, enabling the main parts of the watch to be seen.
Slide Rule Bezel
a rotating bezel that is printed with a logarithmic scale and assorted other
scales and is used in conjunction with fixed rules of mathematics, to perform
general mathematical calculations or navigational computations.
Slide Rule
a device, consisting of logarithmic or other scales on the outer edge of the
watch face, which can be used to do mathematical calculations. One of the
scales is marked on a rotating bezel, which can be slid against the stationary
scale to make the calculations. Some watches have slide rules that allow
specific calculations, such as for fuel consumption by an airplane or fuel
weight.
Sliding Clasp
Also a hook type method, but allows for easy sizing of the bracelet.
Solar-powered
A type of quartz movement where the batteries are recharged via solar panels on
the watch face. They have a power reserve so they can run even in the dark.
Solid State
a Solid State timepiece is a timepiece with no moving parts. All digital
watches are 100% solid state. Analog watches combine solid state circuits with
moving parts.
Split Hand or Flyback Hand
A
seconds hand on a chronograph that can be used to time laps or to determine
finishing times for several competitors in a race. Start the chronograph,
putting both the flyback hand and the regular chronograph seconds hand in
motion. To record a lap time or finishing time, stop the flyback hand. After
recording the time, push a button and the hand will "fly back", to catch up with
the constantly moving elapsed-time hand. Repeat the process to record as many
lap times or finishing times as needed.
Split Seconds
A Split Seconds or Rattrapante
(which means catch up in French) or
doppelchrono
(which means double chrono in German) has two seconds hands, the first push
starts both hands together, the second push stops one hand while the other
continues, and another push allows the stopped hand to catch-up with the moving
seconds.
Split Time Measurement
Measures the elapsed time of a certain moment of an event. If you want to know
the elapsed time at a certain point during a track meet, you can tell exact time
by using this. The chronograph keeps running while split time is being
displayed. Therefore, when split time is released the display returns to
original measurement of total elapsed time.
Stainless Steel
An extremely durable metal alloy (chromium is a main ingredient) that is
virtually immune to rust, discoloration, and corrosion; it can be highly
polished, thus resembling a precious metal. Because of its strength, stainless
steel is often used even on case backs on watches made of other metals.
Stepping Motor
The part of a quartz movement that moves the gear train, which in turn moves the
watch's hands.
Sterling Silver
Sterling Silver is a white and highly reflective precious metal. Sterling refers
to silver that is 92.5 percent pure, which should be stamped on the metal,
sometimes accompanied by the initials of the designer or country of origin as a
hallmark. Although less durable than stainless steel and other precious metals,
sterling silver is often employed in watches that coordinate or look like
sterling jewelry. A protective coating may be added to prevent tarnish.
Stopwatch
a timer that can be started and stopped to time an event. Also, a watch with a seconds
hand, that measures intervals of time. When a stopwatch is incorporated into a
standard watch, both the stopwatch function and the timepiece are referred to as
a chronograph.
Strap
a watch band made of leather, plastic or fabric.
Striking-Work, Striking-Mechanism
Used in a
watch or clock, it is the automatic or hand-operated mechanism that strikes the
hours, rings an alarm or chimes a bell (see repeater above). There are two main
types of clock striking mechanisms; the Locking Plate and the Rack Striking.
The Locking Plate mechanism uses a notched plate to control the strikes. The
plate revolves twice a day, and therefore has twelve notches, one for each
hour. There are 72 bell strikes in any twelve hour interval. The distance
between the notches determines the number of strikes. The plate is not in fact
locked by a lever, but rather the notches provide a template into which a lever
can fall, thus preventing the gear train from revolving. The Rack Strike
depends on a snail, with a spiral shaped cam, against which a feeler rests. The
distance of the feeler from the centre of the cam determines the number of
strikes. Attached to this feeler is a rack, which is lifted one tooth at a time
as the bell is struck.
Sub Dial / Sub-Dial
(Also referred to as a subsidiary dial or auxiliary dial) it is
a small dial within or on the main dial of a watch face, used for any of several
purposes; such as keeping track of elapsed minutes, hours or seconds on a chronograph or
indicating the date (see Register above).
Sun Phase Indicator / Moon Phase Indicator
A Sun Phase Indicator or Moon Phase Indicator is a timepiece function that keeps
track of the phases of the Sun or Moon. The regular rotation of the Moon is
once around the earth every 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes. The time it takes
for the Earth to make a complete rotation around the Sun is approximately 24
hours (exactly 23.934 hours). The Earth revolves around the Sun once every
365.25 days. Once set, the indicator accurately displays the phases of the Moon
or Sun.
Super Accurate
Super Accurate would describe a timepiece that is accurate to +/- 10 seconds per
year. It’s a science that starts with quartz crystal oscillators, working with
a patented integrated circuit technology, assuring their accuracy up to 20 times
more precise than conventional quartz watches.
Swarovski
In 1892, Daniel Swarovski registered a patent for his machine, which allowed
him to cut crystal with greater speed, precision and accuracy than when cut
manually. In 1895, he founded the Swarovski Company, in the Austrian alps, and began what
was to become one of the most renowned crystal production centers in history. In
the late 19th century, crystal was widely used to enhance formal evening wear,
this is what launched the Swarovski name into infamy. By the mid 20th century,
Swarovski had gained
worldwide recognition for the magnificent colors of his crystals. Swarovski
crystals are now widely used in home, fashion, and jewelry design.
Sweep Seconds-Hand
a seconds-hand mounted in the center of the dial, instead of a sub dial.
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T
Tachymeter
a feature found on some chronograph watches, a tachymeter (also called a
"tachometer") measures the speed at which the wearer has traveled over a
measured distance (frequently used to determine the speed of a car, over a
measured distance).
In watch making, it is a timer or chronograph with a graduated dial on which
the speed can be read off in kilometers per hour or some other unit (see
"timer").
Tank Watch
a rectangular watch designed by Louis Cartier. The bars along the sides of the
watch were inspired by the tracks of tanks used in World War 1.
Telemeter
a telemeter determines the distance of an object from the observer by measuring
how long it takes sound to travel that distance. Like a tachymeter (see
"tachymeter"), it consists of a stopwatch, or chronograph, and a special scale,
usually on the outermost edge of the watch face.
Terminage
French term denoting the process of assembling watch parts for the account of a
producer.
Termineur
French term for an independent watchmaker (or workshop) engaged in assembling
watches, either wholly or in part, for the account of an "établisseur" or a
"manufacture", which supply the necessary loose parts.
Timer
Instrument used for registering brief intervals of time
without any indication of the time of day.
Time Zone
Any of the 24 longitudinal divisions of the
Earth's surface in which a standard time is kept. The primary division is
that which is bisected by the Greenwich meridian. Each time zone is 15° of longitude in width,
with local variations, and observes a clock time one hour earlier than the time zone
to it's immediate east.
Titanium
Titanium is a "space age", hypoallergenic metal, often with a silvery-gray
appearance. Because it is 30 percent stronger and nearly 50 percent lighter
than steel it has been increasingly used in watch making, especially in sport watch
styles. Its resistance to salt water corrosion makes it particularly
useful in diver's watches. Since titanium can be scratched fairly easily, some
manufacturers use a patented coating.
Tonneau Watch
a wrist watch with a barrel-shaped case, consisting of two convex sides and a
flat top and bottom.
Tourbillon
The frame of the Tourbillon timepiece contains the regulating
mechanism (balance wheel and hairspring) and the lever escapement, making one
revolution in one minute. The rotation of the whole device around the axis of
the frame reduces effects of friction, unbalanced components and the Earth’s
gravity, thus creating a more accurate timepiece.
Tritium
an isotope of hydrogen used in the luminous compounds which give watch dials and
hands their glow in the dark capabilities. Many watch dials will show a small T
at the bottom, indicating the use of tritium. The half life of tritium is 12.5
years thus it will lose its ability to provide illumination as time passes.
Tritium is now largely superseded by non-radioactive organic compounds, such as
the trade names Luminova and LumiBrite.
TritniteTM
a luminous material developed
in Switzerland
by Invicta. It is a high-quality luminescent coating, that
allows timepiece hands and markers to glow for an extended period of time.
When exposed to regular daylight, it will hold it's glow for about 20 hours.
Trotteuse
Trotteuse is a French term for a direct-drive seconds-hand, especially a
centre seconds-hand.
Twist Lock
a closure similar to Jeweler's Clasp used on ladies jewelry bracelets.
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U
Unidirectional Rotating Bezel
An elapsed time rotating bezel (see "elapsed time rotating bezel"), often found
on divers' watches, that moves only in a counterclockwise direction. It is
designed to prevent a diver who has unwittingly knocked the bezel off its
original position from overestimating his remaining air supply. Because the
bezel moves in only one direction, the diver can err only on the side of safety
when timing his dive. Many divers' watches are ratcheted, so that they lock into
place for greater safety.
Unisex
A timepiece designed for either men or women.
UTC
(Coordinated Universal Time) Current official world time reference for civil and
scientific purposes. Coordinated Universal Time is measured from six standard
atomic clocks at the International Bureau of Weights and Measures (BIPM), in
Paris, France, implemented in 1964. This standard avoids errors and problems
associated with different time zones and summer times operational in different
countries.
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V
VHP
(Very High Precision) A quartz movement, with a temperature sensor, to keep rate
variations to within extremely narrow margins. The movement corrects itself to a
precision of +/- 10 seconds per year.
Vibration
Vibration is the movement of a pendulum or other oscillating element, limited by
two extreme positions. The balance of a mechanical timepiece generally makes 5
or 6 vibrations per second (18,000 to 21,600 per hour). A high frequency
timepiece makes 8 to 10 vibrations per second (25,200, 28,800 or 36000 per hour)
the higher the number, the smoother and more accurately the timepiece will run.
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W
Watch Material
Loose parts, components either for producing timepieces or for repairing them.
In the latter case, they are often called "spare parts" or "repair material".
Water Resistant
a timepiece marked as Water Resistant, without a depth indication, is designed
to withstand accidental splashes of water only. Do | 